Caribbean Islands

Caribbean Islands

BVIs

After clearing through Immigration via a very auspicious and serious Immigration Official in at Spanish Town in Virgin Gorda, we settled into the laid back Island way of life.

There wasn’t a lot in Spanish Town with a small Grocery Shop, small and very expensive Chandlery and not much else besides a couple of Bars/Restaurants, but that was OK by us.

We caught a Taxi over to ‘The Baths’ where we were told you had to go and see as it was a highlight of the area. We both didn’t think it would be much at all, but when we got there it was Fantastic. It is a series of giant Granit Boulders that have been forced out of the earth at some stage down at the waterfront and there was a track you followed through them, under them and over them which had pools of crystal clear water in them. It lead you to a beautiful beach where we all had swims and then back through the Caves/ Boulders to the Restaurant at the top where you had a fresh water swim in the pool there to wash off the salt. It was a great day out and would fully recommend it.

We set sail and headed for Nanny Cay marina spending some time at ‘Deadmans Bay’ and the resort on the exclusive Peter island.

At Nanny Cay Marina, we dropped off our torn Gennaker and the Genoa that had begun to delaminate for repairs and headed back out over to Norman Island which is where Robert Louis Stevenson based the novel ‘Treasure Island’ on.

Norman Island has various bays we spent nights in including Little Harbour, Great Harbour and ‘The Bight’. We spent Xmas day at the Bight, got introduced to the game ‘Ginga’ (where its debatable , but I think I was the champion) and had several swims, including one with a local Turtle. It was a popular place going by the number other boats anchored there.

                                Christmas Breakie on the Boat, well done Shells!

Went back to Nanny Cay marina for one night, filled up with Diesel and picked up our sails. Nanny Cay marina is great and has a lot going for it with everything there and a great atmosphere at the Beach Bar/Pool.

It was then down to the eastern end of Tortala (Pussers Landing) where we dropped Alex off. He had been onboard since the canaries but was time to say good bye as he was heading up to Florida for Christmas.

We then went over to Joost Van Dyke, which is your epitome of the Caribbean Islands. It has little Islands like Sandy Spit, where the whole island takes 3 minutes to walk around and has clear water and white sand, a tiny amount of vegetation, one Palm tree  and that’s it! Beautiful!

We spent several days here and frequented the great spots including ‘Foxys Bar’ and The Soggy Dollar ‘ Bar in White Bay.  In White Bay lagoon we had around 250-300 mm under the Keel whilst at Anchor but felt very secure in there.

We left The BVIs via the ‘Bitter End’ at the top of Tortala and after clearing Customs headed out going past Richard Bransons’ Island where he is rebuilding his ‘holiday home’ after the fire. What a fantastic looking set up he’s got there.

It was hard on to get to St Maarten and we arrived at night and anchored in Simpson Bay there. After immigration,  we went through the Lift Up bridge and into the lagoon which didn’t have a lot of room for anchoring and was pretty shallow in parts.

We spent New Years eve going out for Dinner with friends David and Barbara from Boston USA, whom we meet in the Yacht Club there. After dinner it was down to the beach at Simpsons Bay to the various Beach Bars and to watch the Fireworks going off at Midnight.

We hired some scooters to explore the Island and one of the highlights was going to the Beach by the airport to watch the planes coming in low over the beach and landing just meters away.  Crazy place with people everywhere.

We met some other Kiwis there including the Henry Family from Mangatangi, who farm just down the road from where we lived in Ararimu. They were in the process of taking their Boat back to New Zealand as well, after buying it in the Med. Unfortunately they had come a cropper after running over a Cray Pot and smashing the Gearbox in their boat resulting in having to sit at Anchor for days waiting for Parts. They knew two lots of friends of ours from back in NZ and it  just goes to show how small our World is.

After St Maarten we headed over to St Barths where the real rich and famous hang out. The boats there made ‘Falshator’ look like a matchbox toy. I for one couldn’t see why the place is so popular but it is definitely the place to be seen, especially around New Years Eve.

We are at present in Antigua after another challenging sail to wind and into 25-30 knots, but it is another beautiful Island and we have explored a lot of it via a Four Wheel Dive buggy we hired for the day. We are in at the Nelson Dockyard marina which is a Historical park and has some great well kept buildings there from a by gone era and makes for an interesting contrast from your usual Marinas. 

                        Tori on the Island transport system!

                    Dinner at the Antigua Yacht Club

Atlantic Crossing

TRANS ATLANTIC

                                    Team Falshator ready to go

We dropped our lines and headed out 5pm on the evening of the 20^th November.

Whilst the outlook wasn’t the best with South west winds predicted, the decision was made to go as the longer forecast didn’t look that much better and we would like to get to the BVIs before Tori our daughter arrives on the 10^th December. As well as that, Ally our crew member had just heard confirmation of a Job placement in the Panama on a boat there and needed to get there asap.

So we were on the nose for the first couple of nights with 2-3 meter seas, which wasn’t too bad but there were 30-knot winds thrown in with the squalls so the reefing lines were working overtime.

We saw dolphins along side of the boat and they were jumping out of the water some two meters. They looked like marlin on the end of a line. The first time I’d seen Dolphins jumping this high, they looked happy in their play.

The wind was predicted to come round to the North east on the second day but it seemed to be dragging its chain a bit with this and after three days it had just managed to come round to the North. All this time there were rain squalls with wind attached coming through making the nights interesting when you are on watch on your own. As night time came about and the first shift was due, we would reef her down and depower the boat for the night passage, making life aboard a bit more comfortable, and when the squalls hit, it wasn’t that bad to ease the main and absorb them.

What this did of course was slow our average boat speed down though, but the crew and the boat had to be looked after, as it was going to be a long trip.

I was hoping that if we made an average of 6.5 knots per hour for the whole trip, then we should get into Virgin Gorda in plenty of time.

While the boat was capable of gong faster, it had to be taken into account the heavy load it was carrying with full tanks of water, fuel, extra jugs of fuel, food, spare water (in case the water maker went on holiday) and of course the crew. All this adding up to extra loading on the boat, her rigging and of course Wally, our auto pilot. J

The fourth day I caught a Mahimahi after the line had been out the back of the boat no more than 10 minutes, so it was fresh fish for breakfast and the balance made into raw fish which was superb. We have been eating well on board with Ally and Alex preparing most of the meals so far and lots of fresh produce and great meals with it.

            Alex showing me the USA delight- Apple and Peanut Butter

                         7 Knots of Breeze and sunshine

At this time of writing we have just past the halfway mark. We are down at the 19-degree mark and there is still no sign of these ’Trade Winds’ that are supposed to be here. It has been pretty frustrating with shifty and variable winds, which at night drop down to 6 knots so the engine is being used.

We have topped the tanks up with extra fuel and still have another 6o hrs of motoring left , but I hope these trade winds kick in shortly, otherwise we are in for a long trip!

There has been a couple of damages with the Genoa having to come down and Shelly and I sewing a patch on the Leech of the sail as it was starting to delaminate. The forward shower pump has decided to play up and we are using the main saloon one. Two Battern holders in the main have blown out so I took the batterns right out as we don’t need them for down wind running and I had to shorten the 1^st reefing lines again as they were starting to chaffe through again. This time adding some tape around them to try and help with the Chaffe

The halfway mark was celebrated by a compulsory swim in the middle of the Atlantic and we couldn’t get over how warm it was, with 27 degrees showing on the Chartplotter.

We are maintaining a course of around 260 degrees which is heading us west but also dropping us down the Latitudes as well. Hopefully find those ‘Trade winds’ shortly!

The balance of the trip was pretty frustrating with little to no winds, I think these ‘Trade Winds’ are a bit of a myth as we never saw them. We had 6-10 knots for most of the trip and at times no wind at all, which enabled us to have another swim in the beautiful clear and warm water. We had competitions for the best dives, I don’t think any of them were pushing for the Olympics and there were a few groans from the body flops.

                                Flat out, zzzz

At least we had plenty of food and water and the superb meals kept coming out of the Galley.

We would fly the Gennaker on its own during the days and in the light winds, this kept us at a rate of 4-7 knots.

The decision was made to try and keep the Gennaker flying into the night to try and keep the progress going, but it came back to bite us.

A squall came through and through a certain situation, we rounded up and tore the sail.  We did patch it with tape and sewing, but this only lasted another 8 hrs before it went again.

                        It wasn't pretty but it gave us anther 8 hrs!

This would hurt us in the light winds as we had trouble just with the main and Genoa up. They were back winding due to the sea state and giving the goose neck on the Main a hard time. Which meant running just with the poled out Genoa or motoring.

The engine had been serviced in Las Palmas and the Tech there changed the oil to a heavier type-SAE30 and put a ‘special’ additive in it, apparently to arrest the oil consumption problem we had been having.

What this did was cause the engine to burn more fuel and instead of the 3.2 litres per hour as it has always done, the fuel burn went up to 3.7 litres per hour.

This made us run severely low on fuel and we had to call in at St Martin to grab some more. Going into Oyster Pond marina at night was not easy, there were no Navigational lights there as was displayed on the chart and there was surf both sides of the narrow channel. Needless to say, I think I aged 10 years getting in there. Then we found the ‘Fuel depot’ which was displayed on the chart was only for Commercial Vessels only and we had to catch a taxi with our empty Jugs to the local Petrol Station to get some Diesel. All fun and games, but we got it and headed back out with 100 liters on board and making for Virgin Gorda some 100 miles still to go.

The last 100 miles was probably the best sailing we had had on the entire crossing with 15-20 knots and a beam reach all the way.

Arriving at the Marina, we were greeted by the friendly staff there and once Falshator was tied up, it was Rums all round on board then up to the bar for a Celebratory Drink which went on into the night and a few hangovers were on board the following morning

We met up with Tori, our youngest daughter and her friend Logan the next day and it is great to have them on board. They had flown a long way to catch up with us and looked pleased to be on board although a little shattered by the Journey.

The weathers great and its time to enjoy the BVIs and all it has to offer!

Gibraltar to the Canaries!

Gibraltar- The Canaries

From Cartagena down to Gibraltar, it would take approximately two days sailing we estimated. The wind was supposed to go easterly so the decision was made to go. Fuel was getting low, but I wanted to wait to refuel in Gibraltar where it is nearly a third of the price compared to mainland Spain. I allowed 5 hrs per day motoring to get to Gibraltar which should have been more than enough if the predicted Easterly came to the fore, but being the Med it doesn’t always work out that way!

We spent the first night on a local mooring at Cala Higuera, just in the Lee of the wind sheltering under the rock there. One of the locals there kindly said to use it. I snorkeled over it to check its size, put an additional line onto it from the boat and felt pretty secure on it. It’s always nice to go to sleep at night knowing you aren’t going anywhere J

The next day the wind was up and we had a couple of reefs in and were humming along quite nicely. As we got within 60 miles of Gibraltar the wind decided to do what it does and drop away to nothing. The motor was switched on and we motored most of the remaining way there. The seas around Gibraltar are like a washing machine and it wasn’t pleasant the last few miles, especially running low on Fuel. We were running on fumes when we got into Gibraltar after dodging the barrage of tankers etc waiting at sea to get in. Once there, we filled the boat and the four 20 litre jugs that we plan to use if necessary for the Atlantic crossing.

We spent over a couple of weeks in Gibraltar, getting some work done there and checking the place out. The highlight was going up the ‘Rock’ and taking in the view from the Top, exploring the vast Tunnels that past Military forces had put in and saying Gidday to the local inhabitants, ie- the Monkeys!

Having a drink with Audrey and Tony at the oldest Pub in Gibraltar

Our crew member Dave was supposed to meet us here in Gibraltar, but there was no sign of him. After a bit of investigation, we found out he had been involved in a Motorcylce accident and was in Hospital with punctured Lungs and many broken bones. Sounded like he was lucky to be alive, but what that did was leave the leg from Gibraltar to the Canaries down to just Shelly and I. 

We left Gibraltar early hours of the morning on the 7^th November. The wind was forecast to be on the nose to start with but within the first 24 hr period going to the north for 4 days, so we wanted to catch that window.

Coming out of Gibraltar, we had to hug the coast quite close to make way as when you are out towards the Shipping lanes there, you are swimming very much against the tide. There is an incoming Current flowing into the Med on the surface and along with any westerly wind, it is almost impossible for a Yacht to make way. At Tarifa we hoisted the sails and headed the boat over towards the Morrocon Coast line. When you cross the Shipping Lanes there, you have to do so as quickly as possible and at a right angle to them.

Once over on the African side, it was back hard on out through the entrance to the Med. The wind was funneling through there and we had two reefs in the Main and a big reef in the Genoa and we were still making over 9 knots in 30-35 knots. There are areas of ‘Overfalls’ (waves kicking up and breaking) to contend with as you go along this Coastline, which doesn’t make for a pleasant transit but we had no option but to take them on.

Once out, we had to tack out into the Atlantic as the wind was still South West, but was a lot more benign compared to the Straits of Gibraltar.

The wind dropped off just in time for the night and the next day saw the expected wind change starting to happen with a Swell stating to build.

By the end of the day, it had only come round to the west, but we were finally able to lay for the Canaries.

Morning saw the seas getting bigger and the wind increasing to 25-30 knots. We had big seas of 6-7 meters and winds gusting to over 35 knots for the next couple of days. And while we had to make progress, I took the Main down completely at night and run with a severely reefed Headsail, which made it a lot more pleasant down below and we were still making 6 knots.

Falshator handled the big seas with ease, but it was not easy on ‘Wally’ our Auto Pilot who was working pretty hard as the side on seas were knocking the stern around and he was using some energy to keep us on course.

This brought another thing to watch out for- the power consumption.

The weather was cloudy at best with occasional showers for three days so the Solar Panels were not working as well as they could have been, and with the Freezer and Fridge, the Auto Pilot and the Chart plotters running, the Battery levels had to be watched. We would hand helm for a bit during the day and run the engine just before night to top up the Batteries.

So along with the big seas, wind, lack of Sun and Shelly being seasick for the first three days, it was a little bit challenging.

We made it down to Grand Canaria in just on 4.5 days, and aside from Wally making a funny noise now, she had gone well and it was a good lead into the Atlantic Crossing for us.

I stripped Wally down and he was showing a few signs of fatigue. I took photos and a video and sent them to the Jefa Manufacturer to have a look at them.

Stig, from there assured us there was nothing wrong with him and so I repacked it with grease and reassembled it. We took the boat out briefly to test it and it all seems fine so lets hope the crossing doesn’t bring any problems!

We have been here in Las Palmas now for 9 days now. Ally, our replacement for Dave has been on board now for a few days and we are waiting for Alex, our second crewmember to show up tonight. Ally is a 26 year old Canadian Female who has done so much already in the short span of time she has been here on this Planet. She has her RYA certification and has experience with just about all aspects of boats, from sailing, mechanical, Gelcoat repairs to cooking. She has settled in well and we have had a few laughs and is a good sort.

Alex is a 31 year old US naval officer and also has several Certifications. We are looking forward to meeting him and are looking at heading out for the Caribbean either late tomorrow (20^th) or early the next morning.

I have been right through checking the boat including donning my Dive gear and inspecting/cleaning the Hull and the motors had another service with all the Filters changed, and aside from the last big Shop, we are ready for the crossing and looking forward to it.

See you on the other side in approx. 20 days!!!